10 Feb 2010

Um, HEY!


Right then. Where were we... Meditation... July... What have i been doing in the last 7 months? Well... Medellin, a city I have fallen in love with! Los Paisas! Parcereo! Que Chimba! Always ready to help you out and always partying hard. Colombia has the most national holidays in South America, possible in the world. Imagine, a day off every Monday for three consecutive weeks! THREE WEEKS! If you lived in Colombia, you wouldn´t need to. Stunning. Best places to go at night - one of the many parks! Always full of people and surrounded by bars. Take a Violin with you and you can´t fail to have a good time!

The of course there are the women. Only in Eastern Europe have I seen such consistent beauty, and it´s everywhere. Good old Joyj and I once discussed; each one is more beautiful than the last, but if you look back to the first, La Reina is somehow (somewhat unnervingly) yet more beautiful! Colombia has a massive gene pool. Indigenous, Black and Various European traits make for an impressive display of what humanity can do, and Medellin has the best of it all. Trust me.

And this is the point in the story when the financial situation... becomes more... interesting. Broke might be a better way to describe things. I´d lived frugally, kept partying to a minimum (at times) and even taken to work! Alas, it was to be known that one day (maybe one day very soon) that magic hole in the wall would stop spitting out precious paper. And then what. Go home? Um. That wasn´t really the "plan". Not that there is a "plan" but you get the point. I didn´t really need to think to hard about what to do next. I had a violin. People liked hearing it. Not many people play it here and a random Gringo playing it in the street, restaurant, bus, nay, even at the trafficlights with a guy throwing around a fire-stick can´t fail but bring in the loose change!! And that is where Jhonney comes back into the story.

--------------------

Right... well i wrote all that a whilst ago now. Some time before Christmas at least cause it was all some time before Mel. Long story short, I was drunk Christmas eve in Taganaga (Caribbean coast of Colombia) and we met, Christmas day we snogged in the warm waters of the Caribbean sea, early in the morning and we´ve been together ever since. She´s great. However, Mel is doing a month Telf at the moment (English teacher training or something) so I am getting no attention. Bloody english teachers.

Basically i´d love to fill you all in on the intricate details of what I´ve been up to but to be honest i can´t be bothered. I´ve left it too long now and too much has happened most of which I can´t remember clearly anyway but here are a few highlights...

Salasacas. Some time last year, July, August ish. (I don´t really do dates anymore)

The Salasacan´s were a tribe from Bolivia which the Incas took it upon themselves to move to Ecuador. General consensus is that they were a troublesome bunch of lads but not exactly bad enough to slaughter so the Inca´s punished them buy moving them into the only barren and hard to farm area in an otherwise blossoming valley. It´s Crazy. The land around is volcanic and fertile but the village of Salasacas lies in a dust bowl of a semi desert. Sorry if my history is inaccurate there, it was gleamed from conversations with an Ecuadorian guy named Angel who spoke no English. These days my Spanish is alright, back then... communication was a strong word for what went on, but the point seamed to get across and I had some idea of what was going on, most of the time.

Anyway, The Kattitawa school and Rosa Maria Biblioteca were the 1st multicultural facilities in the region, teaching in both Spanish and Quechua. Basically, I spent about a month teaching the kids music and maths, plastering walls, Busking in Baños, building walls, playing music, moving earth and eating pudding. Seriously. Pudding everyday. We took it in turns to make some kind of sweeeeeeeeeeeeet treat EVERY day. On my last day we made 2. Monkey bread (oh yeah).

I could talk about this place all day. Beautiful, stunning, snow capped mountains, crazy plants growing everwhere, livestock, locals as they should be, indigenous, kind, smiling, playing vollyball, chasing the sheep, dancing and playing the Dulce melodies of the musica andina! Of course the best part (even better than pudding) was teaching the kids. I had the overwhelming joy of starting up music classes. I´d thought about doing things like this before, how we´d make loads of instruments out of recycled stuff found around the place and then make wonderful music. As it was a charming Aussie guy Ken (who had brought his 15yr old son Hayden with him) brought a load of guitars and a melodica, and with the melodica i had got in panama as a birthday present to myself (see Dans log panama edition, i´m sure i mentioned it there, the kids had it in Jurado tambien), we were ready to go. I was slightly sad about the lack of recycled fun but hey. You can´t complain when someone buys guitars. That's just not cricket.

Basically I spent 5 weeks making up songs with the kids, playing rhythm games and singing La Piña (lyrics below, didn´t teach the kids the mango bit). Heaven. We made such a racket! It was great! Even managed to put on a little performance at the end my time there. La Piña, naturally. 4 guitars, 3 melodicas and clapping. The little lovelies didn't let me down. They rocked.

These kids are great. So much energy. So much fun. Yes there are cultural differences that you need to get over but you should see these guys climb a tree. Jesus. They´d be 20m up a pine tree in 20 seconds and down (without falling) in 10. Wamari was the best. That kids just got it.

One day we taught them bulldog. That was fun. Then they thought us a lovely little game they have. La Cebollita (the little onion). Basically split a bunch of kids into 2 teams the more the merrier. Take the biggest 2 kids out of each team. Find 2 trees close to each other that that the kids can get there arms around. Basically the kids sit down in a line and put there arms around the waist of the kid in front, the kid at the front hugs the tree. The biggest kids job is the "harvest" the " little onions" one buy one. This can be done in a variety of ways. the line is drawn at violence, but you know, cultural differences and all... violence has many names and forms... nothing is black and white. From the word go it is mayhem. Screaming, shouting, pulling, all kinds of insanity. I was the biggest kid on my team (naturally, and i always will be). Must stress i didn´t resort to violence. Tickling was all i needed, combined with screaming and shouting at them. And i won.

Like all good things it had to come to and end (god damn visa, I look to a world without boarders, where we can all travel freely. It is frankly insulting how easily I can travel, as a british citizen, yet for people from here to go anywhere it is a butt load of effort) and end it did. For more info on what goes on there take a look at http://sumakkausayyachay.blogspot.com/ and if you like it, feel free to give them some cash, they run on very little funding as there is still no government funding for projects that teach in Quechua. Naturally I was (and remain) broke so could give nout but my time, buy a few quid from any of you lot would go a long way out here (hint hint hint!)... Simply click the donate button on the main page and mention me in the info section so they know i ain´t forgotten them.

Oh, also very quickly, Salasacas lies and hours away form the tourist town of Bañon famed for it´s miraculous waterfall/spring which comes out of the cliff some insane distance in the air, a stunning albeit totally natural phenomenon that the Spanish conquistadors took for some kind of divine sign and turned the place into a kind of perverted holy land. These days people come from all over Ecuador to bathe the murky red pools of volcanic water, drink the naturally sparkling radioactive spring water, observe the miraculous fall and buy various kitch Jesus/Mary related objects each with their own very special power to confuse and belittle the mind into believing in god.

All this made Baños a great place to busk. People are always in a better mood when they are travelling and throw in a bit of Jesus mysticism and you´re onto a definite winner (actually there was a bit of the problem in the 60/70 with hippies invading the town, musicians and pot heads everywhere. In the end the locals got together and chased them out. Damn right too. bloody stinking hippies. I really cant talk. i´m get more hippylike everyday and i love it. All this meant i had to be slightly careful but it was fine!) . So this is where I spent my weekends. In the evenings i´d head doen to the Pipe bar and jam all night long to a mostly empty room but that's fine. Big props the Baños massive!!

Right. That was supposed to be a brief overview of everything i done lately but it didn´t work out like that. I´ll catch up later. Now i´m off to the library to continue my exploration Latin music then off to the street.
VIVA COLOMBIA
JUMP OFF THE GRAVY TRAIN
WARNING, EVERYTHING YOU KNOW IS WRONG! or at least that's what Akira told me and I tend to believe him.

hasta pronto!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlS3MysA0Bs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bzXJPA5V4g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GeZFOAcp_0


Group shot at the school!

Me with my stick at the school. Note the flags in the background.

10 points if you can identify them.

Don´t Keiran and I look sophisticated. This is NOT the case.

Drunken group shot. Thats more like it. I´m actually covered in cream.

So are a few other people... teeheehee!

21 Jul 2009

...

busking is so much fun! Who would have thought it a valid way to spend your life!
I feel the same about meditation. All my life people have tried to tell me to stop sitting around doing fuck all and get on with whatever the hell it is that i ought to be doing. No no no... that will never do! Finally my one tallent (doing fuck all), all those years of practice, paying scroupulous attention to detail, are finally paying off.

I´d like to thank Goku for all he has taught me!


The more i find out about Buda, the more I want to be a Jedi.


Rock the Dragon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-Hjf43k3Cs

17 Jul 2009

Random memories of teh last few months that i may not have mentioned...

Giant marlin fish jumping vertically out of the water off the coast of Panama on the way to Colombia!

Helicopter landing on the beach in Jurado - 9 days with no contact of the outside world, stuck and then it appears. The whole village came out. I lent my binoculars to one of the kids who nearly died in orgasmic joy!!

1st jam session in a long time way back months ago in Boquette, Panama. Great stuff! Turns out I can play the violin after all!

Going to Cartagenga for 5 days and barely leaving the hostel! Hehehehe. Cheers guys! see ya around!

Meeting 2 artisanias on the street in Medellin and chatting with them in a park for an hour in spanish. I didn´t realise we were talking spanish till half way through. Just simple stuff of course... but still!

The word Chimba o la chimbita!! teeheeheeheeheeehehhehehehe

Busking the streets of Medellin. Got enough to have a good time! Gracias mi Corazón(Thanks) to the people of the streets of Medellin!

Parque Periodista (el periquista) y Tambian el parque Carlos E. Party time... all the time!!! ¿Ever been serenaded by 2 men in one night?

Arriving in Ecuador to the sight of a road side church service with more lights than can be healthy (you know how those catholics like to put on a show! It looked like something out of apocalype now!), everything amplified to 12, which suddenly turned into ecuadorian pop (too much fun to describe... I want MORE) and fireworks! What a sight to see as you leave immigration with a 4 month stamp!

and more....

p.s. Did I mention the fruit?? I treat myself to a brand NEW fruit every few days!!!

15 Jul 2009

p.s.

to vaguely translate it do what I have to do...

http://babelfish.yahoo.com/


All hail Douglas Adams!

La Piña





LA Piña, La piña
Si Pienso en ti soy feliz
Tu eres dulce
que sabrroso
Siempre piña para mi

Guanabana blanca
mi encanto jugo de ti
Quire tomarte
hasta el fin
Guanabana para mi

Papaya,, Papaya
quiro trnerte en mi
Que rico
que suave
Que estoy comiendo de ti

Guitar solo

Mango........ Mango
***orgasmic screaming noises (nearly melodic)***
MAMASITA!!!

La mara, Zapote
el borojo y guayaba
granadina, melocoton
megusta mucha las fruitas aqui!

10 Jul 2009

Ok, so it´s in spanish, but you get the idea!

http://solarfasttrack.com/latest/images/water-disaster.pdf


ENTONCES QUE!!!


OHHH! IT´S IN ENGLISH!!!

BE WARNED... THERE IS A RANT ABREWING DEEP INSIDE ME.

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. I APOLOGISE IN ADVANCE FOR ALL THE SWEARING BUT IT IS THE ONLY WAY TO EXPRESS HOW I FEEL ABOUT THE SUBJECTS. OTHER WORDS HAVE BECOME LAME.

8 Jul 2009

Random memories of teh last few months that i may not have mentioned...

Giant marlin fish jumping vertically out of the water off the coast of Panama on the way to Colombia!

Helicopter landing on the beach in Jurado - 9 days with no contact of the outside world, stuck and then it appears. The whole village came out. I lent my binoculars to one of the kids who nearly died in orgasmic joy!!

1st jam session in a long time way back months ago in Boquette, Panama. Great stuff! Turns out I can play the violin after all!

Going to Cartagenga for 5 days and barely leaving the hostel! Hehehehe. Cheers guys! see ya around!

Meeting 2 artisanias on the street in Medellin and chatting with them in a park for an hour in spanish. I didn´t realise we were talking spanish till half way through. Just simple stuff of course... but still!

The word Chimba o la chimbita!! teeheeheeheeheeehehhehehehe

Busking the streets of Medellin. Got enough to have a good time! Gracias mi Corazón(Thanks) to the people of the streets of Medellin!

Parque Periodista (el periquista) y Tambian el parque Carlos E. Party time... all the time!!! ¿Ever been serenaded by 2 men in one night?

Arriving in Ecuador to the sight of a road side church service with more lights than can be healthy (you know how those catholics like to put on a show! It looked like something out of apocalype now!), everything amplified to 12, which suddenly turned into ecuadorian pop (too much fun to describe... I want MORE) and fireworks! What a sight to see as you leave immigration with a 4 month stamp!



Did I mention the fruit?? I treat myself to a brand NEW fruit every few days!!!

24 Jun 2009

what happened next...

............... SO, where was I? Ah yes, Jurado.


Got to say that this plae was one of the most insane experiences of my life. We left from Haiken in a speed boat and sped over the colombian frontier in a fishing speed boat! It was great! As we approached Jurado the heavens opened. We couldn't see more than 5m, but the captain assured us that out launch would be here soon, and it was. So, we rushed off in a torrential downpour, eyes on fire thanks to the combined power of the wind, rain and 100hp engine. Over the sea we flew, through teh pounding surf and into the river mouth.


Upon later inspection the river mouth revealed itself to be a treacherous place. Sand banks, massive trunks of drift wood, kayuko's and christ knows what else made the memory of speeding up the river, on our 1st day in town, the captains eyes barely open, seem even more sureal. But hey, he knew this place like the back of his hand...



Anywho. We arrive at the riverbank in town and are shepparded straight to the police battallion. This ain't no village police station. This is a batallion fit to fight of gurillas, a task thay ain't had to do for 6 years... but still. In the hills surrounding there are 3 more outpost of specialist anti gurilla forces. So we arrive in the batellion and after the usual where have you come from, where are you going, passaporte etc they procede to tell us that becuase Jonney has been in Mexico and now had a bit of a couch [years of smoking what can only be described as incredible amounts of ciggarettes will do that to you!] we all had to be quarantined immediatly and could not leave. After some minutes of vague pleading it tuns out that were having a laugh and proceeded to produce a flaggon of the most stunning hot chocolate I have ever tasted [we were all soaked to the bone, it was like a little glimpse of heaven], and food!


When we enquired about a place to put up out hammocks and tents thay told us we could sleep on the beach, or there was a abandoned house next to the station that we could stay in if we liked! Yes, you heard it here 1st! The house was... great! It was grenaded that last time the gurillas attacked, about 6 yeras before and no one wantede to fix it. No windows or doors but a good enough roof [it only leaked a bit when it rained really hard, which it did evey now and again!] and plenty of room for the 4 of us to sleep! And so teh Jurodo saga began. We were planning to get a boat out of there in a day or so, there is a cargo boat a week, sometimes two, delivering supplies and taking back fish and wood.


There are no roads to Jurado, boat is the only way to get there. The only road for about 400km [on the colombian side of the boarder] links Bahir Solano and El Valle [spelling error]. However, when we arrived there was a srtike on the busses so nothing was being delivered to the boats so there were no boats coming or going! We decided to wait it out. So began a stunning 11 days of chatting with the locals, [this was where i decided to really learn spanish, it's going slow but getting there!] unsuccessful fishing, being given epic amounts of fish by the incredibly friendly and frankly amazing villagers, playing loads of music with the kids in the village [I currently have me violin, a melodia [blow piano], recorder and calmiba[which Jonney showed me how to make out of bamboo, outside the house!!! And Jonney's Djembe]], learning how to make macrame jewlery [Jonney has been a traveling artisan for 7 years, adn Veronica was pretty good too!] and generally having a great time!


The house had the privaleged location of being about 70m from the beach, a stunning milliom mile long streach of pure sand and a clean blue pacific ocean. "Fancy a swim mate?", "na i've just had two, see ya later!". Lifes a bitch, eh?


I could talk all day about this place but briefly a bit about playing music with the kids. The kids hadn't seen many white people and us four in the red house were fascinating! All day long I would play various things with them. They loved the Melodia. Often there would be 8 or 10 of them playing it at the same time. Sounded terrible but great fun! A couple of them came back and started to get the basics down really well! And they loved the guitarita [aka violin!]. I tried to teach them the dance to "I want to be near you" but my spanish wasn't up to it and they danced much better without my foolish utterances anyhow!


Eventually the fuel started to run out and the already limited electicity [of which we had none in the house, cooking on fire, candles at night. electicity is rubbish anyhow] was only on in teh day for a coulple hours and a couple more at night. This also meant that that couldn't pump enough clean water down from the hills so we started drinking the well water. It didn't take long before epic amount of faecal like material, but much more watery, was spewing forth from any orafice avaiable. Jonney was fine aftera a day, Veronika too [i think her time in india helped]. Me and Spencer however had a rough few days. Evil times.


Eventually we decided to screw the cargo boat and get a launch to Bahir Solano and try our luck form there. VAMOS! I'm not gonna go through all that happened there, in short big props out to me home bois in el valle. Ya knows I loves ya, right?


Another week of paridise and another boat and we were finally in Colombian proper! Four boats, three weeks and a hell of a great time! Then a couple days in Cali, I wanna go back, kinda reminded me of Bristol. Here I left Spencer and Jonney headed off to Ecuador. Spence had been a bit ill again but seamed better so i headed off. Turns of the poor lad had Malaria. I feel kinda bad for abandoning him but i wanted to get out and speak some spanish and thats hard when english is around! He's fine now and i'm hoping to find him tomorrow in Medellin!


Anywho. I went to Medellin where I proceded to busk for the 1st time properly. Money is... shall we say... tight... It was great, and a great way to chat to people too! Medellin is stunning too. Set agaianst the backdrop of a fork in the valley in teh mountains, a cool climate at night and boiling in teh day [when its not raining], it almost reminded me of a dorset, green rolling hills, rain etc. In truth it is more like dorset on acid with amazing Colombians everywhere!


Then I couch surfed for the 1st time. Ended up staying a week with Andres, a vet and it was great! I say a cat get castrated!!! Have you evr held freshly cut balls in your hands? nor have i but I saw them and it was wrong. You can't just go about cutting animals balls out. it aint fair.


That is enough for now. Much more has happened but it is either unimportant or would require explanation. Ask me about it some day. So, hey luz, thanks to colombia!


I'm in Cartagenga now. Listening to Vallenato music. I love the music here [listen online at http://delicast.com/radio/Colombia/vallenato/Fundingue ] Heading back to Medellin tonight for 10 days of Meditation. Yes, you heard it right.



Oh, also, I saw Balf!!!


Love to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



A couple pics!!!



The monkey cleverst on monkey island. They live in a deserted research station. Something happened there. i don't know what but... [this was panama]

The red house!!

The village Doctor having a fiddle! he was great!






Walker, Sarah, Jonney, Spence, Pacheko [spelling error]


sorry about the spelling typing errors but I can't be bothered to correct them now! Any questions? you know where to mail!



p.s in conclusion... Colombia es una Chimba! hehehe































31 May 2009

Cause I ain´t written for a whilst...

Where to begin...

So, somewhere around the start of April I left Luna´s with the job unfinished and headed to Costa Rica for one last night in Franks insane company. We had a crazy night in San Jose and then he was gone. No more Batty Boy! Then off to Porto Viejo. They refer to this place as a backpacker reggae heaven so you can guess what i got up to there! Full of Americans who had got stuck there. One old guy had been coming back every summer for 17 years and had been looking for somewhere to buy for the last 6, but couldn´t quite find the right view of the sea.

After a week in yet another caribbeantropical paridise it was time to move on, but where to? What was the "plan".

As usual there wasn´t one. Life is so much simpler when you let it plan itself. You end up where you should be, which for me turned out to be Boquete, up in the Panamanian mountains and home to the highest point in Panama, Mount Baru.

And mount it we did. I met up with a couple of American brothers, Spencer and Walker. Walker had just been doing some kind of eco farm exploration of Central America. Then on a dark night, the day after we met, 0100 hrs, we set off up the Mountain. It wasn´t until about half way up that I realised it is a damn long way up a hill like that!

The reason we climbed at night was in order to reach the top as the sun rose, and what a sunrise it was! The sun coming up over the banks of cloud that streached all the way to the Atlantic and in the opposite direction the Pacific with the shadow of the Mountain streaching to the horizon. Stunning. This was combined with the most orgasmic pineapple i have ever put in my mouth. This thing was divine! So juicy and sweet! I´m sure the effects of the altitude made it even sweeter!!!

I´m sure I mentioned this before but as we´re on the subject of fruit, many months ago, in The Comonwealth of Dominica, I had a religious experiance with a mango.

Anyway. After the epic glories of Baru we headed back to Panama City. Walker to catch a flight, Spencer to decide where to go next, and I, to find a Yacht to New Zealand. I´d been chatting to a few skippers online and they were interested in meeting up for a drink to assess me. We hitched a lift with some other yanks, travelling writers in a big van callerd the Avacado. An ex-tour bus with ceiling lighting!

So back to Lunas! I met up with Melchior and Roman, two french guys I met in the Canaries. We ended up playing music for hours! It was great!

And then I changed my mind. Screw New Zealand, for now at least, I am off to Colombia and then the rest of South America! But how to get to Colombia? The san blas route is stunning, but done that bit. Fly? No! Through the Darien by land? Guerillas, malaria, some of the densest jungle and marsh land in the world? No. By boat down the pacific coast? Why yes!

15 dolla! thankyou! 3 or 4 days, Great! We leave tomorrow you say! Perfect, for that is my birthday! Sometimes things just go you way. Off to the shop for supplies! I think you can pretty much guess what we brought, but best by far, Papaya = sent direct from the tables of heaven to blow your mind with a taste and texture explosion. The fruit out here is so fucking great!

That night was spent on the bow of the Amparo, a beautiful old 80ft wooden motor boat, on an almost mirror like sea, outpacing a slight following swell and all strait into a scintillating full moon.

To top it all off I got chatting to this crazy french guy in his 50s, who was in the past something to do with the fench military. You seen Leon, right? For the last 13 years he had been living in the Darien, next to El Playa Del Muerte. The beach of death. Teh story goes something like this. An english priveteer ship had been chasing a group of pirates for 2 days. Eventually the brits caught up and ravaged the npirates. Not one was left alive. The beach was covered in blood. The Captain of the Privateer took 4 men into the jungle to bury the treasuse. He killed them all there and left for England. There he died. No one knows where the treasure is. But this guy is looking.

So we get to Haiken on in Panama but on the Colombian boarder, deep in the Darien. Stunning place. Then next day to Jurodo. Colombian Frontier town. Until 15 years ago a guerilla town, now a pretty much unmolested paradise. We arrived in a torrential downpour the likes of which England has never seen. As soon as we touched land we were shepperded to the police station.
"We", was now Spencer, Jonny (AKA Maloco, brasillian artisan, travelling the world from the age of 14. He speaks a kind of half spanish, half porugeese and to this day i barely understand what he says. we gat along great!!) and Veronica.


No internet time left!!!!!!


panic and fearª


more to come



dan
x

16 Apr 2009

Lunacy

Brief explanation. I've been sanding the crap out of all this wood and generally mashing stuff up in panama city, luna's castle (hostel) in Casco Viejo. Great part of town.

Anyway. here are sxome pics of what me and frank been up to. We finished today. I'm allowed to think again!!!!!!!!!!!


















This is my favorite bit!!!!!