24 Jun 2009

what happened next...

............... SO, where was I? Ah yes, Jurado.


Got to say that this plae was one of the most insane experiences of my life. We left from Haiken in a speed boat and sped over the colombian frontier in a fishing speed boat! It was great! As we approached Jurado the heavens opened. We couldn't see more than 5m, but the captain assured us that out launch would be here soon, and it was. So, we rushed off in a torrential downpour, eyes on fire thanks to the combined power of the wind, rain and 100hp engine. Over the sea we flew, through teh pounding surf and into the river mouth.


Upon later inspection the river mouth revealed itself to be a treacherous place. Sand banks, massive trunks of drift wood, kayuko's and christ knows what else made the memory of speeding up the river, on our 1st day in town, the captains eyes barely open, seem even more sureal. But hey, he knew this place like the back of his hand...



Anywho. We arrive at the riverbank in town and are shepparded straight to the police battallion. This ain't no village police station. This is a batallion fit to fight of gurillas, a task thay ain't had to do for 6 years... but still. In the hills surrounding there are 3 more outpost of specialist anti gurilla forces. So we arrive in the batellion and after the usual where have you come from, where are you going, passaporte etc they procede to tell us that becuase Jonney has been in Mexico and now had a bit of a couch [years of smoking what can only be described as incredible amounts of ciggarettes will do that to you!] we all had to be quarantined immediatly and could not leave. After some minutes of vague pleading it tuns out that were having a laugh and proceeded to produce a flaggon of the most stunning hot chocolate I have ever tasted [we were all soaked to the bone, it was like a little glimpse of heaven], and food!


When we enquired about a place to put up out hammocks and tents thay told us we could sleep on the beach, or there was a abandoned house next to the station that we could stay in if we liked! Yes, you heard it here 1st! The house was... great! It was grenaded that last time the gurillas attacked, about 6 yeras before and no one wantede to fix it. No windows or doors but a good enough roof [it only leaked a bit when it rained really hard, which it did evey now and again!] and plenty of room for the 4 of us to sleep! And so teh Jurodo saga began. We were planning to get a boat out of there in a day or so, there is a cargo boat a week, sometimes two, delivering supplies and taking back fish and wood.


There are no roads to Jurado, boat is the only way to get there. The only road for about 400km [on the colombian side of the boarder] links Bahir Solano and El Valle [spelling error]. However, when we arrived there was a srtike on the busses so nothing was being delivered to the boats so there were no boats coming or going! We decided to wait it out. So began a stunning 11 days of chatting with the locals, [this was where i decided to really learn spanish, it's going slow but getting there!] unsuccessful fishing, being given epic amounts of fish by the incredibly friendly and frankly amazing villagers, playing loads of music with the kids in the village [I currently have me violin, a melodia [blow piano], recorder and calmiba[which Jonney showed me how to make out of bamboo, outside the house!!! And Jonney's Djembe]], learning how to make macrame jewlery [Jonney has been a traveling artisan for 7 years, adn Veronica was pretty good too!] and generally having a great time!


The house had the privaleged location of being about 70m from the beach, a stunning milliom mile long streach of pure sand and a clean blue pacific ocean. "Fancy a swim mate?", "na i've just had two, see ya later!". Lifes a bitch, eh?


I could talk all day about this place but briefly a bit about playing music with the kids. The kids hadn't seen many white people and us four in the red house were fascinating! All day long I would play various things with them. They loved the Melodia. Often there would be 8 or 10 of them playing it at the same time. Sounded terrible but great fun! A couple of them came back and started to get the basics down really well! And they loved the guitarita [aka violin!]. I tried to teach them the dance to "I want to be near you" but my spanish wasn't up to it and they danced much better without my foolish utterances anyhow!


Eventually the fuel started to run out and the already limited electicity [of which we had none in the house, cooking on fire, candles at night. electicity is rubbish anyhow] was only on in teh day for a coulple hours and a couple more at night. This also meant that that couldn't pump enough clean water down from the hills so we started drinking the well water. It didn't take long before epic amount of faecal like material, but much more watery, was spewing forth from any orafice avaiable. Jonney was fine aftera a day, Veronika too [i think her time in india helped]. Me and Spencer however had a rough few days. Evil times.


Eventually we decided to screw the cargo boat and get a launch to Bahir Solano and try our luck form there. VAMOS! I'm not gonna go through all that happened there, in short big props out to me home bois in el valle. Ya knows I loves ya, right?


Another week of paridise and another boat and we were finally in Colombian proper! Four boats, three weeks and a hell of a great time! Then a couple days in Cali, I wanna go back, kinda reminded me of Bristol. Here I left Spencer and Jonney headed off to Ecuador. Spence had been a bit ill again but seamed better so i headed off. Turns of the poor lad had Malaria. I feel kinda bad for abandoning him but i wanted to get out and speak some spanish and thats hard when english is around! He's fine now and i'm hoping to find him tomorrow in Medellin!


Anywho. I went to Medellin where I proceded to busk for the 1st time properly. Money is... shall we say... tight... It was great, and a great way to chat to people too! Medellin is stunning too. Set agaianst the backdrop of a fork in the valley in teh mountains, a cool climate at night and boiling in teh day [when its not raining], it almost reminded me of a dorset, green rolling hills, rain etc. In truth it is more like dorset on acid with amazing Colombians everywhere!


Then I couch surfed for the 1st time. Ended up staying a week with Andres, a vet and it was great! I say a cat get castrated!!! Have you evr held freshly cut balls in your hands? nor have i but I saw them and it was wrong. You can't just go about cutting animals balls out. it aint fair.


That is enough for now. Much more has happened but it is either unimportant or would require explanation. Ask me about it some day. So, hey luz, thanks to colombia!


I'm in Cartagenga now. Listening to Vallenato music. I love the music here [listen online at http://delicast.com/radio/Colombia/vallenato/Fundingue ] Heading back to Medellin tonight for 10 days of Meditation. Yes, you heard it right.



Oh, also, I saw Balf!!!


Love to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



A couple pics!!!



The monkey cleverst on monkey island. They live in a deserted research station. Something happened there. i don't know what but... [this was panama]

The red house!!

The village Doctor having a fiddle! he was great!






Walker, Sarah, Jonney, Spence, Pacheko [spelling error]


sorry about the spelling typing errors but I can't be bothered to correct them now! Any questions? you know where to mail!



p.s in conclusion... Colombia es una Chimba! hehehe