Well, here we are then! I've been in Dominica for about a week now and already the crossing feels like a lifetime ago. To arrive in St Martin (of all places) after a month in the Atlantic was insane. Phillipsburg, where we pulled into accepts up to 7 cruise ships a day. The place is full of sun burnt tourists who wander around buying as much duty free stuff as they can. Anyway this is slightly off topic.
The crossing.
The crossing.
The preparations and setting off were fine. I've chatted about a lot of it already so on to the leaving. We eventually set off around 4pm. Rounding the top of Gran Canaria as the sun set was epic. then we got stuck in Gran Canaria's lul. the wind was coming from the east and the mountains were in the way. Damn. So there was a bit more motoring to do before we finally turned it off pretty much for good!
In the morning we found out that the main gaff had snapped (for the non gaff rig inclined the gaff is a big lump of wood holding the top of the sail up). Bugger. Dave was suitably pissed off. The decision was made to keep going and repair it on the way so off we went, Land still just about visible. We then had a couple of good days sailing down the coast of Africa (about 400 miles off it) with the good old mizzen staysail up, mizzen and big ol' jib. The main gaff was busy having it's apoxy resin set do we left it to it.
Then, as the last day of the 5 day forecast predicted, the wind died. Not knowing when it would come back we lowered sails and got ready for... doing not much! Being an eco SAILING boat the engine was not an option. Most people simply get the motor going when teh speed drops below 2-4kts, so as far as i can tell few people really know what it is like to be baclamed anymore. A real shame because it is stunning!!!!
If you have never seen the Atlantic looking like a mill pond it is difficult to comprehend. As far as the eye can see in all directions the sea takes on a glassy, oil like complection. and there is no one around. We did not see a ship for 6 days (although there was a fly-by of a plane). So what to do in the middle of the sea when you ain't going anywhere??? Swim!!!!! Although even at 0.9kts Lista seamed to run away from us! We had Bruno (the spinnaker) up from time to time when a breath came along and being dragged along behind at 2.5kts is great fun! Luckily also around this time was Holly's birthday, Christmas and New year, so that gave us something to do! And each day Mum would try to out do the previous in their culinary skills! G's birthday provided much fun a frolicking around on deck, and Christmas was great! So much good food! Lamb Shank Stew, roast tatties, caramelized carrots and fresh Mince pies!!! Perfect!
And so the beclament continued. We started to notice the micro fauna in the sea more, tiny cells of life providing teh basis for the immense complexity of the marine ecosystem. Then, one morning as i was on watch, the sun just having come up I saw the most amazing sight I have ever seen. A cuttle fish skeleton floated past with its normal array of growth and then, from underneath, what should appear but a red crab! Surfing the Atlantic on a Cuttle fish! Madness! I hope he is still out there! Really made my day!
Other nature highlights, a plethora of dolphins, Portuguese men of war, petrels and a probable humpback whales and more!!! All great sights!
Then there was the toxic red sludge we found just before night one day. Holly Spotted something yellow on the sea about 2 miles off and as there was a breath of with at the time we headed down to see what it was. So it turned out that form the horizon to us there were loads of algal blooms streaking through the water! Thick red poisonous surface slough that as we passed through it started to phosphoresce in the brightest was i have ever seen! Luminous blueish green flying through the water! We put on war of the worlds and thought of the Martians!
Just before new year we had a few false wind starts. The wind would pick up a bit in the evening only to die totally. Then, from nowhere one night came some fierce gusts, The main Gaff was back up but we were taking it easy on the poor old bird so she came down 1st. The wind was rushing around all over the place. Blowing a hooley from the east west and south all at the same time! Engine on briefly (it was getting dangerous) and by the morning we were left with no wind again and teh very confused sea.
The next day the trades kicked in. A good steady force 4-5 pushing us along at a steady 6-7kts. Whilst becalmed we had been making 20-30 nautical mile days (mostly thanks to the canaries/Atlantic current). Now we were doing 120-140 miles a day and going well! The main gaff was holding us, we even had her topsail up again! Smooth sailing! More great food (fresh supplies holding out well!) and we caught our 1st fish! A dolphin fish or Mahi mahi, Amazing green/yellow/blue color and tasty as you like!
The day to day life of watches, reading, listening to music, chatting and so on has settled into a good routine now. We're coasting. Spirits high and bellys full!
The most amazing thing about Lista, being an old boat she will in all probability go on to out last all of us. Popel will look after her. No one really owns here they are just looking after her. Her crew are really nothing more than her moving parts helping her on a course she has already done. She knows the sea better than I ever could!
Then more fish! Flying fish are the stupidest things in the sea (with the possible exception of sea horses). The jump on deck, flap around a bit then die. One even managed to hit Kat in the face! Our best score (on a moonless night) was 14 of the little buggers! The we got a Barracuta. Evil looking teeth on the thing. Evil.
The best by far was the Wahoo!!!!!! He was HUGE! It took a real fight to get him in as well! We were using a squid on the end of some thick nylon twine but had no reel so we pulled in this massive brute with bare hands! He would dive down, swim off and pull like mad! Eventually we got him alongside and Nick placed an excellent shot with the Gaff (fishing this time, pole with a massive, barbed hook on the end of it) and hauled him on board. Dave cleaved his head with the meat cleaved and 5 mins of death throws later he was gone. I got his guts out (including the parsitic trematodes inside, grim) and carved him up! The it was Wahoo for 5 days! Steaks, curries, goujons, cakes and more! I could have eaten him for a month!
Then one morning not long after we had eaten all the wahoo, at about 2am, I'm half asleep after coming off watch, there is an almighty crash, crack, bang! I run upstairs to find Nick at the helm and Dave saying (not quite shouting), "ok, this is bad, this is really bad". The running backstay snap shackle had snapped. Metal Fatigue had wrenched the solid brass apart. With the mast unstayed it began to wobble - not good for wood. Then within 30 seconds it had gone. Snapped about half was up. Shrouds scatter the deck, sail flowing in the water off the port side, Blank looks on her crews faces, Dave's thoughts about what to do fill the air.
The mizzen is still pushing us on so we head into the wind and waves to get some relief form the pounding. The broken half of the mast, spreaders and topmast are still attached to the sail and each waves sends them crashing into the topsides. There is a real risk of it puncturing the hull then we are in even more trouble. Kat prepared the dingy and life raft. I get teh emergency pumps ready just in case...
Dave Nick and I briefly try to haul it all back on board but that ain't ever gonna happen. Far too heavy. So out comes the angle grinder and we start cutting shrouds and lanyards. Anything that could be holding the spike that keeps attacking the hull onto us. A few shrouds cut and the mast in the water moves over onto the starboard side. Pumps ready I come back on deck and keep an eye on the broken mess in the water. Seeing it all floating there, slightly further away now was surreal. It looked so calm and peaceful drifting in the water, out main sail area, scattered in the waves.
Eventually eveything is cut away it drifts off behind us and we get back vaguely on course. We all sit down around the helm and stare blankly around. Someone occasionally saying something vague. The all except the person on watch drift off into a haunted, restless sleep.
The morning reveals the damage in the harsh light of day. The whole bow section is a mess. Lines, shrouds and cut rope everywhere. The massive area that was out powerhouse, the main mast, sail, jib, spinnaker is gone. She looks forlorn, empty. The mizzen edges us along slowly but gone are our 150 mile days.
Spirits are low but not broken. Now comes the job of jury rigging at sea and to be honest, although I would never want to lose a mast again, I did enjoy the follow-up. Many plans were discussed to get some more sail up front again. The first job though was to get up the mast and put something up there to hang shrouds, block etc off. So we lifted the boom up the mast and up went Dave to put a Crans iron (iron ring with things to attach bits to). Dave has a leg for every limb (old sailor term essentially for a monkey man who can climb anything at sea.) and did amazing things up there. Once the 1st lot of stuff was up I had a go up there and it was a hell of en experience at sea to be up half a mast. I'm beginning to think i don't like heights too much!
Long and the shot of it is that 1 day after the mast snapped we were fling a small jib up front and 3 days later we had moved the mizzen gaff onto the main, had a larger jib up (at a funny angle) and had an massive old jib flying from the mizzen mast. Our average speeds picked up well and we were back to doing 100 - 120 mile days!
Guess the daily run (guess anything for that matter! How fast do you think we're going? how far from land? and so many more) had become a highlight of the day throughout the crossing. 6pm was time to write the log and get everyones guesses. I think i was right twice. On the dot once!
So we sailed on.
We were almost exactly half way across the Atlantic when the main broke. Once we had got everything sorted out and moving well again we still had another 10 (ish, time had become so vague...) days to go. Life got back to vaguely normal and eventually signs of land appeared. We started to see more boats, mostly big tankers and transport ships. Then, when we were about 3 days from land the birds went mad! Frigates, pelicans and all sorts. We were nearly there!
A few night watches later (and a close call with a motor boat, you just don't expect to see an anchor light in the middle of the ocean!) we had done it. Phillipsburg. Not the best place for your sanity after a month at sea. We signed in and the went to a bar to talk about the time we had had. All said and done, I would not change it for the world!
I have ranted enough. Loads more stuff happened (like the suspected pirates and being followed for days by a Minke whale who was surfing down waves behind us then veering off, massive 5m swell, showering in squalls, learning to make pastry, epic amounts of fresh bread, splicing and so much more!!!!!!!!) but I've written enough for now.
That all seams like a lifetime ago now. Now I'm in Dominica. There is more to say about St Martin so i'll get on it at some point soon.
Over and out!
In the morning we found out that the main gaff had snapped (for the non gaff rig inclined the gaff is a big lump of wood holding the top of the sail up). Bugger. Dave was suitably pissed off. The decision was made to keep going and repair it on the way so off we went, Land still just about visible. We then had a couple of good days sailing down the coast of Africa (about 400 miles off it) with the good old mizzen staysail up, mizzen and big ol' jib. The main gaff was busy having it's apoxy resin set do we left it to it.
Then, as the last day of the 5 day forecast predicted, the wind died. Not knowing when it would come back we lowered sails and got ready for... doing not much! Being an eco SAILING boat the engine was not an option. Most people simply get the motor going when teh speed drops below 2-4kts, so as far as i can tell few people really know what it is like to be baclamed anymore. A real shame because it is stunning!!!!
If you have never seen the Atlantic looking like a mill pond it is difficult to comprehend. As far as the eye can see in all directions the sea takes on a glassy, oil like complection. and there is no one around. We did not see a ship for 6 days (although there was a fly-by of a plane). So what to do in the middle of the sea when you ain't going anywhere??? Swim!!!!! Although even at 0.9kts Lista seamed to run away from us! We had Bruno (the spinnaker) up from time to time when a breath came along and being dragged along behind at 2.5kts is great fun! Luckily also around this time was Holly's birthday, Christmas and New year, so that gave us something to do! And each day Mum would try to out do the previous in their culinary skills! G's birthday provided much fun a frolicking around on deck, and Christmas was great! So much good food! Lamb Shank Stew, roast tatties, caramelized carrots and fresh Mince pies!!! Perfect!
And so the beclament continued. We started to notice the micro fauna in the sea more, tiny cells of life providing teh basis for the immense complexity of the marine ecosystem. Then, one morning as i was on watch, the sun just having come up I saw the most amazing sight I have ever seen. A cuttle fish skeleton floated past with its normal array of growth and then, from underneath, what should appear but a red crab! Surfing the Atlantic on a Cuttle fish! Madness! I hope he is still out there! Really made my day!
Other nature highlights, a plethora of dolphins, Portuguese men of war, petrels and a probable humpback whales and more!!! All great sights!
Then there was the toxic red sludge we found just before night one day. Holly Spotted something yellow on the sea about 2 miles off and as there was a breath of with at the time we headed down to see what it was. So it turned out that form the horizon to us there were loads of algal blooms streaking through the water! Thick red poisonous surface slough that as we passed through it started to phosphoresce in the brightest was i have ever seen! Luminous blueish green flying through the water! We put on war of the worlds and thought of the Martians!
Just before new year we had a few false wind starts. The wind would pick up a bit in the evening only to die totally. Then, from nowhere one night came some fierce gusts, The main Gaff was back up but we were taking it easy on the poor old bird so she came down 1st. The wind was rushing around all over the place. Blowing a hooley from the east west and south all at the same time! Engine on briefly (it was getting dangerous) and by the morning we were left with no wind again and teh very confused sea.
The next day the trades kicked in. A good steady force 4-5 pushing us along at a steady 6-7kts. Whilst becalmed we had been making 20-30 nautical mile days (mostly thanks to the canaries/Atlantic current). Now we were doing 120-140 miles a day and going well! The main gaff was holding us, we even had her topsail up again! Smooth sailing! More great food (fresh supplies holding out well!) and we caught our 1st fish! A dolphin fish or Mahi mahi, Amazing green/yellow/blue color and tasty as you like!
The day to day life of watches, reading, listening to music, chatting and so on has settled into a good routine now. We're coasting. Spirits high and bellys full!
The most amazing thing about Lista, being an old boat she will in all probability go on to out last all of us. Popel will look after her. No one really owns here they are just looking after her. Her crew are really nothing more than her moving parts helping her on a course she has already done. She knows the sea better than I ever could!
Then more fish! Flying fish are the stupidest things in the sea (with the possible exception of sea horses). The jump on deck, flap around a bit then die. One even managed to hit Kat in the face! Our best score (on a moonless night) was 14 of the little buggers! The we got a Barracuta. Evil looking teeth on the thing. Evil.
The best by far was the Wahoo!!!!!! He was HUGE! It took a real fight to get him in as well! We were using a squid on the end of some thick nylon twine but had no reel so we pulled in this massive brute with bare hands! He would dive down, swim off and pull like mad! Eventually we got him alongside and Nick placed an excellent shot with the Gaff (fishing this time, pole with a massive, barbed hook on the end of it) and hauled him on board. Dave cleaved his head with the meat cleaved and 5 mins of death throws later he was gone. I got his guts out (including the parsitic trematodes inside, grim) and carved him up! The it was Wahoo for 5 days! Steaks, curries, goujons, cakes and more! I could have eaten him for a month!
Then one morning not long after we had eaten all the wahoo, at about 2am, I'm half asleep after coming off watch, there is an almighty crash, crack, bang! I run upstairs to find Nick at the helm and Dave saying (not quite shouting), "ok, this is bad, this is really bad". The running backstay snap shackle had snapped. Metal Fatigue had wrenched the solid brass apart. With the mast unstayed it began to wobble - not good for wood. Then within 30 seconds it had gone. Snapped about half was up. Shrouds scatter the deck, sail flowing in the water off the port side, Blank looks on her crews faces, Dave's thoughts about what to do fill the air.
The mizzen is still pushing us on so we head into the wind and waves to get some relief form the pounding. The broken half of the mast, spreaders and topmast are still attached to the sail and each waves sends them crashing into the topsides. There is a real risk of it puncturing the hull then we are in even more trouble. Kat prepared the dingy and life raft. I get teh emergency pumps ready just in case...
Dave Nick and I briefly try to haul it all back on board but that ain't ever gonna happen. Far too heavy. So out comes the angle grinder and we start cutting shrouds and lanyards. Anything that could be holding the spike that keeps attacking the hull onto us. A few shrouds cut and the mast in the water moves over onto the starboard side. Pumps ready I come back on deck and keep an eye on the broken mess in the water. Seeing it all floating there, slightly further away now was surreal. It looked so calm and peaceful drifting in the water, out main sail area, scattered in the waves.
Eventually eveything is cut away it drifts off behind us and we get back vaguely on course. We all sit down around the helm and stare blankly around. Someone occasionally saying something vague. The all except the person on watch drift off into a haunted, restless sleep.
The morning reveals the damage in the harsh light of day. The whole bow section is a mess. Lines, shrouds and cut rope everywhere. The massive area that was out powerhouse, the main mast, sail, jib, spinnaker is gone. She looks forlorn, empty. The mizzen edges us along slowly but gone are our 150 mile days.
Spirits are low but not broken. Now comes the job of jury rigging at sea and to be honest, although I would never want to lose a mast again, I did enjoy the follow-up. Many plans were discussed to get some more sail up front again. The first job though was to get up the mast and put something up there to hang shrouds, block etc off. So we lifted the boom up the mast and up went Dave to put a Crans iron (iron ring with things to attach bits to). Dave has a leg for every limb (old sailor term essentially for a monkey man who can climb anything at sea.) and did amazing things up there. Once the 1st lot of stuff was up I had a go up there and it was a hell of en experience at sea to be up half a mast. I'm beginning to think i don't like heights too much!
Long and the shot of it is that 1 day after the mast snapped we were fling a small jib up front and 3 days later we had moved the mizzen gaff onto the main, had a larger jib up (at a funny angle) and had an massive old jib flying from the mizzen mast. Our average speeds picked up well and we were back to doing 100 - 120 mile days!
Guess the daily run (guess anything for that matter! How fast do you think we're going? how far from land? and so many more) had become a highlight of the day throughout the crossing. 6pm was time to write the log and get everyones guesses. I think i was right twice. On the dot once!
So we sailed on.
We were almost exactly half way across the Atlantic when the main broke. Once we had got everything sorted out and moving well again we still had another 10 (ish, time had become so vague...) days to go. Life got back to vaguely normal and eventually signs of land appeared. We started to see more boats, mostly big tankers and transport ships. Then, when we were about 3 days from land the birds went mad! Frigates, pelicans and all sorts. We were nearly there!
A few night watches later (and a close call with a motor boat, you just don't expect to see an anchor light in the middle of the ocean!) we had done it. Phillipsburg. Not the best place for your sanity after a month at sea. We signed in and the went to a bar to talk about the time we had had. All said and done, I would not change it for the world!
I have ranted enough. Loads more stuff happened (like the suspected pirates and being followed for days by a Minke whale who was surfing down waves behind us then veering off, massive 5m swell, showering in squalls, learning to make pastry, epic amounts of fresh bread, splicing and so much more!!!!!!!!) but I've written enough for now.
That all seams like a lifetime ago now. Now I'm in Dominica. There is more to say about St Martin so i'll get on it at some point soon.
Over and out!
