The valley of desolation!?

Who would have thought it? The Valley of DESOLATION! Followed by the BOILING Lake!

WOW!!!!!!!!

From chatting to people in town they had said that the boiling lake is a must! Beautiful scenery, they said! A lake that really boils (and it actually is boiling!)! Watch out for the hot mud though, boiling sulphourous sludge spewing from the ground!

So off I went.

The people I had chatted to said that the path was fairly easy to follow so I forfitted the guide. Leave early they said, busses start at 7am. I left at 11. Not the best planning in the world but hey, I’ve never been very good at that (although I have started to realize that is can yield some impressive results.. more to come...)! Anyway.

Got a cab up with a German couple. Winding up into the hills on roads that were falling off the edge of the cliffs (literally) and then off on the trail I went! Straight into a muddy path, past the hydroelectric power station (40% of Dominica energy is hydroelectric) and into the forest!

The path started easy enough, logs on mud, and then the climbing started. Up and up for ages then over a ridge and down the other side, humming birds all around! Continuing on through the dense, lush forest and down to the valley floor, over the river then up again!! Repeat a few times and you are on a ridge stomping along the top of the forest, mountains topped with clouds looming through the trees.

At the highest point of the trail, you see forest all around and the sea in the distance, and more hummingbirds!!!!! Should really find out what they were (here a guide would have been handy). Another decent through the jungle and into a riverbed, follow it down, no mean feat, it had 4m falls to get down! The soil in a crumbly red mess, huge boulders scattering the floor. Then you get your first peak at the VALLEY OF DESOLATION (great name!).

Spurting mini geysers spew fresh (hot) water and gas into piles all around them. Yellow sulphorous deposits cover the river bed, there are pools of greys, blues, blacks, greens, yellows, browns and oranges all littering the landscape and flowing down the mountain. Again rotten eggs waft through the air (not at bad as Soufriere, sulphour spring a couple days ago!) Down into the valley, across another river and thought the desolate yellow water. Life clings on in the form of mosses and lichens, and scattered around are grasses, a smattering of lizards and the indomitable flies. Then up, through the valley and around a corner and you are there. A huge boiling lake!

A flooded fumarole, a crack through which gases escape from the molten lava below, a lake of water trapped in a crater being fed by the rainwater of the surrounding area by 2 small tributaries. Gas and vapor fill the air. The wind swirls in the crater, sometimes you can see the whole crater, walls an unknown distance high, the river continuing off down the hill and the boiling centre of the lake. The wind eddies and you can barely see 2 meters!

Beautiful, stunning.

They say it'll take three to four hours to get there. I think this is tourist speed and estimate. I did it in 2 and a quarter. Just time for lunch then off we go, back into the valley of desolation!!!!! I had a trusty stick and kept a close eye on how deep it went into the mud. I met a polish guy who badly burnt his foot on the mud. Massive nasty blister. Then back up the now forest river valley. A bit too far up in fact. Missed the turning and ended up half way up a 6m climb before I realized that there was nothing like this on the way down! Backtracked and the path was obvious.

The decent. I didn't realize on the way up that is really was the way up! A long old climb, so the way back was a lot easier!!!!

SO tired when I got back.

Good 5 hours of walking (plus lunch!)

I loved it up there!

In other news, I'm in Dominica. In St Martin I Took part in the classic yacht regatta on a buattiful old boat called Infante. Old school racer. I loved that too! Then a banana boat down here. Weird experience. The rum is great here.

Dominica is stunning. My 1st experience of propper rain forest? Stunning, amazing super happy fun times!!!! Waterfalls, natural hot springs! so much more! Off to the semi finals of the calypso crown now!!!

whodedoOOOOOooooOOOoO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(the echo is great over the valleys!!!!)

Tomorrow down to Martinique!

Pictures don't do it justice!

Crossing the Atlantic

Well, here we are then! I've been in Dominica for about a week now and already the crossing feels like a lifetime ago. To arrive in St Martin (of all places) after a month in the Atlantic was insane. Phillipsburg, where we pulled into accepts up to 7 cruise ships a day. The place is full of sun burnt tourists who wander around buying as much duty free stuff as they can. Anyway this is slightly off topic.

The crossing.

The preparations and setting off were fine. I've chatted about a lot of it already so on to the leaving. We eventually set off around 4pm. Rounding the top of Gran Canaria as the sun set was epic. then we got stuck in Gran Canaria's lul. the wind was coming from the east and the mountains were in the way. Damn. So there was a bit more motoring to do before we finally turned it off pretty much for good!

In the morning we found out that the main gaff had snapped (for the non gaff rig inclined the gaff is a big lump of wood holding the top of the sail up). Bugger. Dave was suitably pissed off. The decision was made to keep going and repair it on the way so off we went, Land still just about visible. We then had a couple of good days sailing down the coast of Africa (about 400 miles off it) with the good old mizzen staysail up, mizzen and big ol' jib. The main gaff was busy having it's apoxy resin set do we left it to it.

Then, as the last day of the 5 day forecast predicted, the wind died. Not knowing when it would come back we lowered sails and got ready for... doing not much! Being an eco SAILING boat the engine was not an option. Most people simply get the motor going when teh speed drops below 2-4kts, so as far as i can tell few people really know what it is like to be baclamed anymore. A real shame because it is stunning!!!!

If you have never seen the Atlantic looking like a mill pond it is difficult to comprehend. As far as the eye can see in all directions the sea takes on a glassy, oil like complection. and there is no one around. We did not see a ship for 6 days (although there was a fly-by of a plane). So what to do in the middle of the sea when you ain't going anywhere??? Swim!!!!! Although even at 0.9kts Lista seamed to run away from us! We had Bruno (the spinnaker) up from time to time when a breath came along and being dragged along behind at 2.5kts is great fun! Luckily also around this time was Holly's birthday, Christmas and New year, so that gave us something to do! And each day Mum would try to out do the previous in their culinary skills! G's birthday provided much fun a frolicking around on deck, and Christmas was great! So much good food! Lamb Shank Stew, roast tatties, caramelized carrots and fresh Mince pies!!! Perfect!

And so the beclament continued. We started to notice the micro fauna in the sea more, tiny cells of life providing teh basis for the immense complexity of the marine ecosystem. Then, one morning as i was on watch, the sun just having come up I saw the most amazing sight I have ever seen. A cuttle fish skeleton floated past with its normal array of growth and then, from underneath, what should appear but a red crab! Surfing the Atlantic on a Cuttle fish! Madness! I hope he is still out there! Really made my day!

Other nature highlights, a plethora of dolphins, Portuguese men of war, petrels and a probable humpback whales and more!!! All great sights!

Then there was the toxic red sludge we found just before night one day. Holly Spotted something yellow on the sea about 2 miles off and as there was a breath of with at the time we headed down to see what it was. So it turned out that form the horizon to us there were loads of algal blooms streaking through the water! Thick red poisonous surface slough that as we passed through it started to phosphoresce in the brightest was i have ever seen! Luminous blueish green flying through the water! We put on war of the worlds and thought of the Martians!

Just before new year we had a few false wind starts. The wind would pick up a bit in the evening only to die totally. Then, from nowhere one night came some fierce gusts, The main Gaff was back up but we were taking it easy on the poor old bird so she came down 1st. The wind was rushing around all over the place. Blowing a hooley from the east west and south all at the same time! Engine on briefly (it was getting dangerous) and by the morning we were left with no wind again and teh very confused sea.

The next day the trades kicked in. A good steady force 4-5 pushing us along at a steady 6-7kts. Whilst becalmed we had been making 20-30 nautical mile days (mostly thanks to the canaries/Atlantic current). Now we were doing 120-140 miles a day and going well! The main gaff was holding us, we even had her topsail up again! Smooth sailing! More great food (fresh supplies holding out well!) and we caught our 1st fish! A dolphin fish or Mahi mahi, Amazing green/yellow/blue color and tasty as you like!

The day to day life of watches, reading, listening to music, chatting and so on has settled into a good routine now. We're coasting. Spirits high and bellys full!

The most amazing thing about Lista, being an old boat she will in all probability go on to out last all of us. Popel will look after her. No one really owns here they are just looking after her. Her crew are really nothing more than her moving parts helping her on a course she has already done. She knows the sea better than I ever could!

Then more fish! Flying fish are the stupidest things in the sea (with the possible exception of sea horses). The jump on deck, flap around a bit then die. One even managed to hit Kat in the face! Our best score (on a moonless night) was 14 of the little buggers! The we got a Barracuta. Evil looking teeth on the thing. Evil.

The best by far was the Wahoo!!!!!! He was HUGE! It took a real fight to get him in as well! We were using a squid on the end of some thick nylon twine but had no reel so we pulled in this massive brute with bare hands! He would dive down, swim off and pull like mad! Eventually we got him alongside and Nick placed an excellent shot with the Gaff (fishing this time, pole with a massive, barbed hook on the end of it) and hauled him on board. Dave cleaved his head with the meat cleaved and 5 mins of death throws later he was gone. I got his guts out (including the parsitic trematodes inside, grim) and carved him up! The it was Wahoo for 5 days! Steaks, curries, goujons, cakes and more! I could have eaten him for a month!

Then one morning not long after we had eaten all the wahoo, at about 2am, I'm half asleep after coming off watch, there is an almighty crash, crack, bang! I run upstairs to find Nick at the helm and Dave saying (not quite shouting), "ok, this is bad, this is really bad". The running backstay snap shackle had snapped. Metal Fatigue had wrenched the solid brass apart. With the mast unstayed it began to wobble - not good for wood. Then within 30 seconds it had gone. Snapped about half was up. Shrouds scatter the deck, sail flowing in the water off the port side, Blank looks on her crews faces, Dave's thoughts about what to do fill the air.

The mizzen is still pushing us on so we head into the wind and waves to get some relief form the pounding. The broken half of the mast, spreaders and topmast are still attached to the sail and each waves sends them crashing into the topsides. There is a real risk of it puncturing the hull then we are in even more trouble. Kat prepared the dingy and life raft. I get teh emergency pumps ready just in case...

Dave Nick and I briefly try to haul it all back on board but that ain't ever gonna happen. Far too heavy. So out comes the angle grinder and we start cutting shrouds and lanyards. Anything that could be holding the spike that keeps attacking the hull onto us. A few shrouds cut and the mast in the water moves over onto the starboard side. Pumps ready I come back on deck and keep an eye on the broken mess in the water. Seeing it all floating there, slightly further away now was surreal. It looked so calm and peaceful drifting in the water, out main sail area, scattered in the waves.

Eventually eveything is cut away it drifts off behind us and we get back vaguely on course. We all sit down around the helm and stare blankly around. Someone occasionally saying something vague. The all except the person on watch drift off into a haunted, restless sleep.

The morning reveals the damage in the harsh light of day. The whole bow section is a mess. Lines, shrouds and cut rope everywhere. The massive area that was out powerhouse, the main mast, sail, jib, spinnaker is gone. She looks forlorn, empty. The mizzen edges us along slowly but gone are our 150 mile days.

Spirits are low but not broken. Now comes the job of jury rigging at sea and to be honest, although I would never want to lose a mast again, I did enjoy the follow-up. Many plans were discussed to get some more sail up front again. The first job though was to get up the mast and put something up there to hang shrouds, block etc off. So we lifted the boom up the mast and up went Dave to put a Crans iron (iron ring with things to attach bits to). Dave has a leg for every limb (old sailor term essentially for a monkey man who can climb anything at sea.) and did amazing things up there. Once the 1st lot of stuff was up I had a go up there and it was a hell of en experience at sea to be up half a mast. I'm beginning to think i don't like heights too much!

Long and the shot of it is that 1 day after the mast snapped we were fling a small jib up front and 3 days later we had moved the mizzen gaff onto the main, had a larger jib up (at a funny angle) and had an massive old jib flying from the mizzen mast. Our average speeds picked up well and we were back to doing 100 - 120 mile days!

Guess the daily run (guess anything for that matter! How fast do you think we're going? how far from land? and so many more) had become a highlight of the day throughout the crossing. 6pm was time to write the log and get everyones guesses. I think i was right twice. On the dot once!

So we sailed on.

We were almost exactly half way across the Atlantic when the main broke. Once we had got everything sorted out and moving well again we still had another 10 (ish, time had become so vague...) days to go. Life got back to vaguely normal and eventually signs of land appeared. We started to see more boats, mostly big tankers and transport ships. Then, when we were about 3 days from land the birds went mad! Frigates, pelicans and all sorts. We were nearly there!

A few night watches later (and a close call with a motor boat, you just don't expect to see an anchor light in the middle of the ocean!) we had done it. Phillipsburg. Not the best place for your sanity after a month at sea. We signed in and the went to a bar to talk about the time we had had. All said and done, I would not change it for the world!

I have ranted enough. Loads more stuff happened (like the suspected pirates and being followed for days by a Minke whale who was surfing down waves behind us then veering off, massive 5m swell, showering in squalls, learning to make pastry, epic amounts of fresh bread, splicing and so much more!!!!!!!!) but I've written enough for now.

That all seams like a lifetime ago now. Now I'm in Dominica. There is more to say about St Martin so i'll get on it at some point soon.



Over and out!

Made it!

Hello!
Got here!
The took part in St Martins Classic Yacht Regatta on a different boat, Infanta. Beautiful.
Will tell all about the crossing at some point. too much to concentrate on now!

ONWARDS!

Off tomorrow!

Crazilly excited. All ready to set off.

A month at sea. Must be mad.

Back so soon, lets see how you handle something important…

Graciosa was an amazing experience. A small community within a tourist destination who were so happy to share their amazing island with thousands of randoms! Then there was the music! Constantly playing with yourself can get lonely. Instruments, to me at least, want to play with others. After playing with others again, when I play now it seams hollow. Still, there with be more!!! I feel so lucky to be able to play (cheers Dad!!!)

Anywho, after a week in some kind of bizarre and barren Eden we headed south. Some of the other boats I’d been hanging around with followed us out the harbor and promptly passed us. There was enough wind to get us moving at 4-5kts but we need a hefty gust blowing to get flying! Gerard, Arno and Benjamin followed us down gibing all the way but eventually they headed into Arricifa’s north anchorage and we kept on. Ain’t seen them since. One-day maybe…
So there we are, Arrecife, Lanzarote. Anchoring went without a hitch and as it was my day to be Mum (we take it in turns day by day cooking, cleaning etc. good fun!) I cooked up some kind of storm (no doubt!). As we were planning to head straight to Fuerteventura it seamed rude not to set foot on land so into town we went…

It all started so innocently with coffee and cake (if you forget the tequila on Lista!). Coffee soon became beer. Then the cafe closed and more drink was required! Damn. Off to another bar and some fool suggested rum (I think it was me).

A few drinks down and inhibitions loosening and we talk about our hopes and fears for crossing the pond. I have always realized that it is a hell of an undertaking, to sail such a distance, and then to do it on an old wooden boat, no matter how amazing you know she is, is frankly daunting. Now though, it seams so much more real. In a few days we will set off. It will take at least two and a half weeks, probably more, potentially 6 or 7. Hope for the best, plan for the worst. Talk of many potential problems comes up, what if we spring a leak? Being becalmed! What if the water goes bad? Broken masts!? What food do we need? Man overboard! The multitude of potential health problems? Gales??? What if we get lost???

All important things to think about! All planned for and carefully thought about but nonetheless, they can play on your mind. On the up side there are the hopes for the best. Steady trade winds allowing us to hoon along for days on the same tack, tow generator giving power behind, flying fish jumping onto the deck, sun, sea, fishing, swimming if the weathers calm, splicing! I plan to be an expert splicer by the time we arrive. Braided rope and all!

Whatever happens it will be an amazing experience and plenty of time to reflect and think. So much has happened in the past few years and it is important to take time out of life to appreciate it fully. Also a bit of planning for the future, perhaps. Where to go next!!?? Well… I say planning; it is more likely to be thinking about how to deal with getting to new places and deciding what to do next!

Where was I? Ah yes, the second bar. When this place closed we headed off to a club. By this time I think steaming drunk would be the correct way to look at things! I think it is fairly safe to say that we were dancing like morons most of the night in the middle of the dance floor, and on the podium, surrounded by mystified locals. Brilliant! Holly in particular strutting some mind bending moves!

Next morning we all woke up hung-over (and still a little drunk!). Dave decided it would be a good idea to set off without the engine so up went the staysail and we pulled up the anchor by hand. Bloody hard work at the best of times, the chain is made of massive inch and a half links all the way down. It takes 3 or 4 of us to pull the thing in. This is where sea shanties really come into their own! Long drawn out maneuvers requiring a rhythmical motion. Perfect!
So off we went! We were heading for the Isle de Lobos (Island of wolves, no idea where the name came from) with a steady breeze pushing us along at a comfortable 4 kts with what little swell there was gently moving us along! Then all of a sudden, at about one o’clock the wind stopped. Not even a whisper. The sea became a millpond. Normally when the wind dies, there is enough swell to make the gaff fly around like a tree branch in a gale, but this day there was nothing! Completely still! With Nick and Holly on watch, the rest of us had a bit of a nap!

It was a bizarre experience, but to think it could happen mid Atlantic, possibly for days, makes you wonder. I have heard people telling stories of being becalmed on the open ocean. The one thing they all fear the most is the irrational quiet voice in the back of their heads saying, "what if the wind never comes back? What if I’m stuck here, in this bizarre limbo for ever!" Irrational fear perhaps, but your perception of time changes on the sea. In many ways time becomes irrelevant, the only gauge of the passing of moments are the changing of the winds, the rolling of the swell, the periods of dry between squalls. The cycles of night and day still exist but the ship speeds on regardless. We are but working parts in a grand, wind powered machine, willing her forward as so many others have done before, and will do again. I am but one small part in the life of this vessel and from Lista’s perspective, I am but a leaf falling in the breeze.

This perspective allows minutes to seam like hours. On a long, lonely, rain soaked night watch, seconds become hours and then whilst changing sails, splicing lines, diagnosing shipping lane crossings at night and the like, time flies faster then I have ever known it to! I can only imagine the ways three days becalmed, a thousand miles form land, night and day, can play on your mind.

Thank god we have a good supply of books! Then there is always the violin!

Were we in this situation at sea we would sit, but seeing as we were near land and feeling slightly worse for wear, we motored to a nearby anchorage to be greeted by a huge mega yacht. The comparison of these boats to Lista is like comparing a fresh apple from a beautifully and haggard old tree to an apple flavored opal fruit. So fake and distant form the truth. Impressive to look at perhaps and temporary joy can be achieved but a totally different experience. They had up lighting on the masts! They even had massive doors on the hull that stored Jet Ski’s, speed boats etc James bond style! That was pretty cool.

From there we headed further south in the island chain. A night in the south of fuertaventure. A brief trip into town provided an ample supple of pick and mix! Then onto Las Palmas, Gran Canaria.

Being back in a big western style city has been a strange experience. I feel closer to home now than I since I left. The main street is like wandering around any town or city in England, or the rest of Europe for that matter. That’s fine though, we ain’t here for the sight seeing, although there is a lovely old town and beach. Now is about preparation, mental, physical and practical. Dave and Katharine are working like mad getting stuff ready. We help in any way we can but really, Dave has to be sure that everything is in order himself. Recently it has become clear to me just how much responsibility the captain of any vessel has. The lives of his crew are in his hands. He must be at one with his boat. Complete knowledge of and faith in her most subtle parts is required.

To properly pilot (Anjin in Japanese) a ship successfully requires an acuteness of the senses not found in other walks of life. Perhaps this is different on today’s new yachts with their GPS radar combos, wi fi and such, but for us new are back to basics.

Modern life is so visual. We take our information through our eyes and it feeds strait into our brains almost blanketing our other senses. Your eyes can tell you a certain amount on the sea, but if you rely on them too much you will totally miss the bigger picture.

The sounds of the boat will tell you more. Each creak, squeak, thud, the sound of lines pulling tight, the rush of the hull through water, the whistle of the wind through the rigging and a million other sounds barrage your ears every second of the day. By touching lines you feel the weight on them, their tension shows you how hard the sail is pulling. The wind on your face sends shivers down your spine. I can’t be sure, but often I think that I can feel changes in the pressure of the air around, indicating perhaps a new weather system incoming, and approaching squall beyond the horizon or the coming of the sun. The smell of approaching rain or land.

The stench of humanity is not present at sea; except for our own smells that we now are so aware of that they fade into the background. When you hit land for the 1st time in days the smell can be overpoweringly vulgar.

Finally, with all the hard labour undertaken at sea, food is so much more appreciated, in any form. A small snack at 3am can have such an uplifting effect! A meal with your friends at lunchtime is a joy!

Yes, life is very different at sea!

So, maybe I have rambled on about this crazy life enough. In other news, Dirk and Anne on Sail away (we met them in El Jadida) are here with their new crewmember Charlotte. Good to see them again! It is mad how you see the same people again and again in the next port, or the one after that! A couple of the French people I met in Graciosa turned up yesterday as well! Good fun.

You’ll all be glad to know that our homemade advent calendar is going well! A couple highlights being a carol service, a massage for Mum and a shackle!

Any who… I’m off to meet up with a few people and sing some more carols! Play some music and have another great night! There is a German guy called Eluck (I think that is how you spell it!) who is traveling around with a Tuba! He plans to learn how to play walking bass lines on a tuba! I wish you every success my friend!

Finally, MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE!!!! We’ll be somewhere in the Atlantic for both so have a good one! I’ll be thinking of you all!

p.s Does anyone know how the whole Father Christmas thing works at sea? We have a chimney buy it leads straight into a diesel stove and the flu is not very big.

Music in Graciosa!

Music is Great! For the last 2 nights I´ve been playing with a bunch of sailors from around the world and some locals from the island! SO much fun! Music is a genuine universal language! Been up till the early hours of the morning and haveing stupid ammounts of fun!! And on top of it all meat!! Hard to come by on the boat... don´t keep too well. I turned up last night and was greated by a plate of the most amazing sausage and ribs I´ve ever had!!! who needs veg!!!!

Accordian, guitars, soprano sax, violin! Everyone loves the Irish washerwoman!

I love music.

More pics!!!

Canaries!!!!

Nick and Holly were attacked by a weird feral man. He moved like a monkey man, slooped over, licked the ashtray and then rubbed their pringles into his face. Welcome to the Canaries. Grasiosa to be accurate, the northern most inhabited island of the group. Kind of a mad half desert place with 3 extinct volcanoes (possibly dormant, I ain’t too sure of the definition to be honest. In fact I hope dormant, that is more exciting!) and large sandy bush pocked expanses. Then there are the millions of white empty snail shells coating the sand! I rekon that they come out at night and then get caught in the sun at dawn and die. Mad. Honestly millions!!!!!

So here we are then!!!! After an unexpected and extended stop in Morocco has been thoroughly enjoyed by all it is back out to sea!!!! Sea legs. In my experience they be fickle types. I was convinced mine had formed and hardened good in the time I had so far spent afloat. However it seams that two weeks on land can soon stop that! Being on anchor is fine but walls in fishing harbors do not fit the bill. We got back out to sea Tuesday lunchtime (with two new chicken crew. They were useless. Didn’t even try to pull a rope. On top of that they shat everywhere. Poor form) and headed out into some beasty seas. Four meter swell and not much wind combine to make a rough ride.

It is stunning. The way the boat rides the waves and 19 tones surfs! Yes! You heard it hear 1st! California eat your heart out! All you who don you plastic boards and jump upon waves know nothing of the beauty of flying along at 10 knots in Lista.

Luckily I spent the first 3 hours at the helm navigating the sand banks under Dave’s chart guidance. Didn’t take long after that for the epic vomit session to begin. All good fun though!!! Kind of. 2 days of bad followed by the trusty old sea legs returning. Never again will I leave the sea for more then a few days.

With all that said sailing is still the most fudamentally amazing form of transportation in existence. Just brilliant.

Right now I’m in a small bar on the aforementioned island. As far as I can tell this place exists purely on tourism with token locals thrown into the mix for flavor. Tourism does funny things to places and people. The lopcals almost seam to resent the in comers for their fun but at the sam,e time know that they need them to continue to exist in such a beautiful place. It is strange being on a boat and having sailed to these places. I don’t feel like a tourist. Not quite sure what I do feel like though. Definitely not local. Never could be.

Anyway. The canaries have become somewhat of a promised land for us. This is where we carry out the final preparations for our crossing of the Atlantic ocean. Before we leave this place we will be sure that Lista Light can carry us for many weeks across the seas. Provisions must be checked. The boat must be prepared. Any known potential weak points must be looked at and amended. Life will find a way.

SO lets get on with it! Fill and repaint the top sides!!! Asses the cordage!! Treat the wood accordingly!! Check EVERYTHING!!!!

GISHAS!!

BABIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes!!!!! It has happened!!! We have chickens on board!!! Live ones!!!

Got them yesterday from the market! Looked a bit manky at first but now they are washed up with a good splash of Ecover eco washing up liquid! Beautiful!!!

Ok, so one didn't look too good yesterday, bad ass problems, so I pulled its head off. It takes ages to pluck a chicken. Maybe with a bit more practice... I'll be plucking chickens in no time!!!

Just need to find some Jerk now!!! Then we're in buisness!!!

Results of naming ceremony and pics to come!!!

Goodbye Morocco!!!

So here we are again, on the verge of leaving another beautiful place and a great time had by all (most of the time). El Jadida has been such a great place to explore Morocco from! Essentially a fishing town with amazing markets!!!

Not all peachy though. Holly seams to attract the subtle attentions of kids with rocks and the desire to lob them at her head!!! Unblocking the heads (toilet) which had imbibed the contents of the not quite clean (filthy) harbour. Grim. I attempted to run (purely for "pleasure". Madness) and have done bad things to me ankle. Never again. Then there was the Hamam (bathing house) incident, but I do not want to think about that too much.

Don't really like looking at the poor little chickens in the market. They are probably ex battery egg layers that aint producing anymore. I just wanna take them all home and nurse them back to full health. Then eat 'em!!! hehehheeee

All in all though a great cultural experience! So Arabic but with a liberal amount of Europe splashed about randomly! Simply Splendid.

Another great thing anout sailing is the fellow mariners you meet along the way. Down the coast of Spain/Portugal we met the magnificent Moonfleet posse many times and this morning Dirk and Ann our Canadian neighbours left after a great week moored up next to us! They may be getting on a bit but a younger couple at heart I have ner seen! Living on their boat for the last 20 years and traveling the world! What a dream!!! Hopefully see ya in the Canaries!!!

Alright then! Lets slough the stays! Stow the engine room! SWAB THE DECKS LAD!!! SWAB THOSE DECKS!!! And it's shanties at the ready as we cast off!

Help me Bob there's a Bully in the Alley!

WWAAAAAAHHHHHAAAYYYYYYYY Bully in the Alley!

So help me Bob there's a Bully in the Alley!

Bully down in Shinbone Al!

Pull/Push/act on Emboldened shouts!!!!!!!!!! Then freestyle as many verses as required!!

LETS GO!!!!!!!!!!!

p.s. I may have previously implied the end of Europe and those sharp witted folk amonst you may have noted that the Canaries are part of Europe. I was, of course refering to mainland Europe!

p.p.s I LOVE MY TASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!