9 Nov 2008

Marrakech


Day 1. This city has blown my mind. Arrived this afternoon after a bus ride through some arid flat lands covered with hedges of cacti, followed by rolling brown ploughed hill sides, all surrounded by semicircular irrigation channels and being seeded by hand. Then from over the crest of a hill appear the Atlas Mountains, topped with snow. Stretching half horizon to the south, a monumental vision. Perhaps I will visit them one day.
Then you enter the Red City itself.

From the bus it is a short walk to Djemaa el Fna, the main market in Marrakesh. The market is truly an explosion of Moroccan culture in such an awe inspiring way. Food like you would not believe (Tagine, cous cous, kebabs and so much more), mint tea to live for, coffee to wake up for, stunning jewellery, the most vibrant and colourful clothes you could believe (coupled with a man who wants nothing more than for you to purchase his wares. It is often hard to escape, no means nothing, but the banter is much enjoyed!), tinkers, tailors, boy dancers, men with monkeys (I know, monkeys!), snake charmers and a most infuriating fishing game a tout la monde.

With an 8-9 foot pole, slightly more length on the string and a hoop on the bottom just bigger than the top of the 2l bottles of fizzy pop over which it must sit. Many techniques are tried. NONE work. After half an hour the arms ache and the fustrateing mounts. I have seen no one get a drink.

Then there is the music. Groups of musicians fill the square at night. Violins, banjos, drums, whistles and many more I do not even know the names for. The violins are played vertically on the knee, with thicker bows than I have ever seen. The sound is electrifying.

From the sea, where the rhythm of all sounds are known, where home has now become so familiar to such a vibrant metropolis as this provides a complete sensory overload:
And I love it!!!!

The music continued long into the night and I found it hard to tear myself away but it had to be done. There is always tomorrow.

Day 2. The hotel is right on top of the square. A little noisy but as you all know I sleep like a log!! I slept well. Descending the long ceramic staircase I can not quite believe what I saw yesterday. It all seams to be some kind of insane dream. Emerging into the market, sun beating down, it all looks so real again! I am truly mesmerised buy this place!

I have acquired a traditional berba bow for my violin. Stunning. Twice the size of my other bows and oh! What a sound it creates. The complexities of the music escape me. It is such a rhythmical sound! All passed on aurally, apparently never written down. Very difficult to play, but we persist!! I could study it for a lifetime! Maybe I shall... One day.

I am off exploring! So easy to get lost!!!
(must not spend money. must not spend money. must not spend money. must not spend money.)

1 comment:

will said...

wow Dan what a trip! keep having fun